She worked for Emeril, and you’ll want to make the drive to the Pass to taste her food
Jessica Calvert is not only a talented chef, but an astute business person as well. It isn’t often that the two aptitudes go together, and many chefs just couldn’t make it without that silent business partner who controls the checkbook. Savory Roots started as a meal prep business: preportioned, healthy and affordable meals designed for those who are too busy to cook for their family. It breaks down to about $5 a meal, so it is a good deal and is still a big part of the business.
The next step was the move to a food truck, which offered the expanded kitchen Jessica needed, and provided another business opportunity. As the business continued to grow, a brick-and-mortar kitchen seemed more and more like the way to go, and when a great location became available, along with a good size dining room, a full-service restaurant was the next logical step.
Kiln-DeLisle Road isn’t as far away as you might think; it took me less than 30 minutes to get there from Biloxi, and, it was worth every mile of the trip. Jessica calls Savory Roots fast and casual, with a simple menu that is creative but sticks to the basics.
If you want to start with a small plate or two, check out the Biloxi Blues ($7.95), a serious serving of homemade potato chips, topped with Maytag cheese (one of America’s most famous domestic blue cheeses) and crispy bacon. You also might want to take a look at the Smash Plate, French fries topped with pot roast, gravy, and cheddar cheese, and the house-made smoked tuna dip (both just $8.95).
If you have shown up with a serious appetite, Jessica’s take on shrimp and grits ($13.95) is pretty interesting. Made with beer BBQ sauce, mushrooms, bacon, Creole tomato glaze, and smoked Gouda grits. There is a lot going on in this dish, and well worth a try.
If you are starting to get the feel that there is a NOLA influence in this menu, you won’t be surprised to know that Jessica worked for Emeril Lagasse for seven years. It shows in many ways.
Savory Roots is also known for good po’boys, fresh, local seafood (including Mississippi’s finest farm-raised catfish, Simmons), and a killer shrimp remoulade salad. But I have to be honest and say that my favorite, absolutely hands down, was Savory Roots’ version of chicken and waffles.
Chicken and waffles came to us from Atlanta, Georgia, but it is starting to catch on here. Jessica kills this dish by making every component near perfection. The waffles were some of the best I have ever had, and I’d be perfectly content to make a meal of them. The buttermilk fried chicken was great, not overcooked, moist and perfectly seasoned. It is garnished with cheddar cheese, and maple Sriracha mayo (what a great idea). Wow.
Jessica is a talented chef, whose attention to detail is remarkable, and her creativity in the kitchen shines bright. Savory Roots is a bit out of the way, but I promise you will not regret the drive. Put this one on your to-do list.
Savory Roots
Where: 63400 Kiln DeLisle Road, Pass Christian
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday; 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-8 p.m. Thursday-Friday; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday; and closed Sunday-Monday
Phone: 228-222-4227
This story was originally published September 28, 2018 at 9:00 AM.