Living

Do it yourself Po-boys

A softshell crab po-boy is delicious.
A softshell crab po-boy is delicious. Special to the Sun Herald

In some parts of the country they call it a hero, a hoagie, a sub or even an Italian sandwich.

Here we call it a po-boy.

The stories on the origins of this style of sandwich vary, but what they all have in common is they are made by splitting a European-style loaf of bread in half and filling it with all sort of delicious ingredients, often from the deli and almost always with a garnish of tomato and lettuce.

The Gulf Coast, with its Creole influences, has its own version in the world-renowned po-boy. But in my humble opinion no one comes close to the wonders that can be found in a New Orleans–inspired po-boy.

Anyone can add cold cuts to a loaf of French bread, but it takes a special kind of courage to fill a crusty baguette with a deep-fried softshell crab or a crab cake, and then cover it in melted American-style cheese.

Perhaps it is even more daring to load French bread with roast beef and tons of gravy.

Regardless, po-boys are not just restaurant fare and can be made at home with some ease, no matter the influence.

What is of paramount importance is that you use best-quality bread.

My favorite locally comes from Henry’s Bakery and Café in D’Iberville, and the Le Bakery in Biloxi is good as well.

Shop around the various bakeries and find a freshly baked baguette that is crusty and chewy.

That’s the first step and if you falter here, the end result will be less than expected.

You can choose from a long list for the kind of po-boy you make — fried local seafood, roast beef and gravy, or hamburger.

If you are not feeling inspired, go for ham and cheese. Also consider using olive oil or even an olive oil–based vinaigrette instead of mayonnaise; it can make a big difference.

Try some of the included recipes here or make up your variations.

Fried Shrimp Po-boy

12 shrimp per po-boy

Half of a baguette or 1 po-boy loaf per person

Dry tempura batter

Panko bread crumbs

Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning

Mayonnaise, olive oil, pickles, lettuce and sliced tomato

Slice the bread open lengthwise and toast just before you fill it, but not far in advance. Fill a deep pot no more than halfway full of oil and heat to 375 f. Season the shrimp with Tony’s, then toss them in the tempura. Allow them to sit until tacky, then toss in the Panko and deep fry until brown, but under no circumstances more than 2 minutes. Fry in small batches. Add mayonnaise or olive oil to the toasted bread, load with shrimp and then top with the garnishes you have chosen. Serve at once.

Roast Beef Po-boy

Baguette or po-boy loafs

Your choice of garnishes (see above)

1 beef chuck roast (around 2 pounds)

Beef stock

Garlic cloves

1-2 quartered onion

2-3 sliced carrots

Salt and pepper

Slice the garlic into thin rounds. With a sharp knife make 1½-inch incisions all over the beef, then fill each with a sliver of garlic. Season the beef with salt and pepper then sear in a deep cast iron pot in hot oil. Take your time and get a deep brown finish all over. Remove the beef, add the vegetables and cook until starting to brown, add the beef, fill with stock just to cover the beef, cover and simmer over low until the beef is falling apart tender. Remove it and let it cool, the pull it apart. Simmer the remaining stock until thick as you want it to be.

Assemble the po-boy and enjoy.

A Simple Cold Cut Po-boy

Baguette or po-boy loaf

Selection of cold cuts such as smoked ham, salami, mortadella or even thin-sliced roast beef

At least two cheeses (white or yellow cheddar, provolone, mozzarella, pepper jack, etc.)

Thin slices of tomato, onion, lettuce, pickles, cucumber, avocado

Homemade mayonnaise, garlic aioli, olive salad

This is as simple as it gets. The best idea is to plate the ingredients and allow your guests to prepare their own. Make sure to have plenty of napkins, cold beer or a nice chilled white wine or even a chilled rosé wine. This po-boy is also good served hot.

Don’t forget the Barq’s root beer in a bottle!

This story was originally published May 10, 2017 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Do it yourself Po-boys."

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