No nacho cheese here. Mateo’s in Biloxi offers a fresh take on Tex-Mex.
Chef Matthew Woodridge and his brother, Brandon, decided the Mississippi Coast was in need of a better Tex-Mex restaurant. A better mousetrap, so to speak.
Woodridge graduated from a French culinary school, had years of fine dining experience in California, and knew a thing of two about how the West Coast was up-scaling Tex-Mex with better-quality ingredients. The idea was to bring this new concept to the Coast, and if ever a chef was qualified to bring this new look, and taste, it was Woodridge.
For far too long, and often, Tex-Mex has been associated with less than stellar ingredients, with perhaps nacho cheese in a can the best example. Yuck. Mateo’s uses the best quality ingredients they can find and sources as much of it as possible locally. Like the pizza guy says, better ingredients, better tacos.
You will like the feel of this place. Bright colors, yellow and green, smoothed by wooden tables and a high blacked out ceiling. Seating is mixed, with booths and tables, many next to a window for a pleasant view.
You can also sit at the bar, and if you do you have got to be sure to try one of the hand-crafted margaritas, that feature Mateo’s sour mix, agave nectar, blood orange puree and even jalapeno-infused tequila.
The menu is well-balanced, and as you know, I am always all about making a meal of small plates. Check out Mateo’s made from scratch guacamole, poke tuna tacos and, perhaps my top choice, Mexican street corn. If you have never tried this treat, you are in for a surprise. Roasted corn covered in queso fresco and chipotle lime mayo. An order or two along with a summertime cold beverage, and I am set to go.
Other bestsellers include a Gringo taco, filled with beef, queso, lettuce and pico de gallo, a Southwestern shrimp taco, chimichanga, one of the all time classics and a Mateos’ burrito, made with beef, chicken or pork, refried beans, queso, pico de gallo, cilantro lime rice, cucumber and picked red onion.
It is pretty obvious that this menu is an interesting mix of traditional, and some pretty wonderful pairings from Woodridge. I like the creativity, and verve of it all, there is a level of excitement in the menu that really does up-scale the offerings.
In the category of favorites, pay special attention to the fajitas, with the addition of Mateo’s cilantro lime rice that is so delicious, and house made cheese bread.
The quesadillas are worth a good look, featuring fajita, steak, chicken or cheese, and the chimichurri carne asada are made with certified Angus beef, seasonal vegetables, and that delightful pickled onion.
Man, on man, I am telling you, get out of that same ole thing Tex-Mex rut you just might be suffering from, and try something sharp, fresh, and delicious.
Mateo’s Tex-Mex and Margaritas
Where: 1906 Beach Blvd., Biloxi
Hours: Wed to Sun 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Call: 228-207-4822
This story was originally published July 3, 2020 at 5:45 AM.