I tried Dong Phuong king cake for the first time. Here’s my review.
About the Writer
Mona Moore is McClatchy's South Region Service Journalism Editor. She is based in the Biloxi, Mississippi, area.
When I asked my niece, Keianna, what kind of cake she wanted for her birthday, I was very surprised when she said, “A king cake.”
She was born in Mobile, but had never tried a king cake in her 12 years on Earth. So, it really shouldn’t have been a surprise. In fact, there ought to be laws against oversights like this. First degree Mardi Gras neglect? Felony king cake deprivation?
Since Ani’s birthday is in November, I asked if she would accept an “IOU” until Mardi Gras season. Once we negotiated a substitute cake to share the day of her birthday, she accepted the deal.
In this, my first Mardi Gras season at the Sun Herald, I had the pleasure of writing about Dong Phuong king cakes on more than one occasion. But, I couldn’t wrap my head around two-hour lines for a king cake.
I’m a native of California and didn’t experience Mardi Gras until I moved to the Gulf Coast. But, my king cakes have always come from the grocery store down the street.
Waveland Pharmacist Rudy Letellier said the James Beard Award-winning bakery’s king cake lived up to the hype. So, I enlisted his help in procuring a cream cheese king cake from the New Orleans East bakery.
Needless to say, my first order of business was to right my family’s king cake crime, but I was also intrigued to finally discover the majesty (pun intended) of a Dong Phuong.
Before I even took a look at the cake, I was surprised by the box’s weight. Grocery store king cakes don’t come this heavy.
The king cake looked way more substantial, too. Instead of the wreath-shaped grocery king cakes, this one was a solid loaf with a thick layer of icing.
After one bite, I’m a convert. The Dong Phuong cake reminded me of a sweet challah bread that really stood up to the layers of icing and cream cheese. The combination had the taste and consistency of French toast and tasted just as moist and delicious the following day.
Best of all, it was also a big hit with my niece.
My king cake testing is far from over. Letellier highly recommends the pecan king cakes and I hear there are savory ones out there.
So what king should I try next? Email me and let me know at momoore@mcclatchy.com.
This story was originally published January 18, 2023 at 7:00 AM.
