Coast Cooking

Coast Cooking: Take a chance on off-the-beaten path places

By JULIAN BRUNT/Special to the Sun Herald

The menu at Marlo's Backyard BBQ in Canton.
The menu at Marlo's Backyard BBQ in Canton.

One of my favorite subjects is out-of-the-way restaurants in the South.

I was just in Canton and almost drove past a barbecue place, but at the last minute I smelled the hickory smoke and made a quick turn into the parking lot of what looked like a real dive.

Man, am I glad I did. This little place called Marlo's Backyard BBQ, had a limited menu, basically ribs, turkey legs and chicken wings, along with the prerequisite sides, but the ribs have to have been the best north of I-10.

There is a place in Bay St Louis, on U.S. 90 called Cannella. It is unassuming a place as you will ever find, but has the best German and Italian food in Mississippi.

 On Porter Avenue in Biloxi is a little Mexican joint (Not Tex-Mex),  called La Nortena. It has the best Mexican food I have ever had.

In D'Iberville, just across from the Ford dealer on Automall Parkway, is a place called Henry's Café and Bakery, best crusty bread, best Vietnamese pho and fried pork chop around.

I could go on and on, but the point is that that little place on the side of the road that may not look like much just might surprise you. Take on a culinary adventure, be brave and you will be richly rewarded.


Never underestimate an out-of-the-way restaurant.