Using fresh tomatoes to make sauce does take a bit of time, but it results in a bright, fresh sauce that differs markedly from a long-cooked meaty ragu and is just right for summer.
As is often the case, when a cooking idea is a very good one, there is a huge variety of recipes to choose from, but it is best to keep this one simple. Add a chopped jalapeño if you like, or red pepper flakes, and if you insist, you can leave the sugar out, as it is a topic of much debate. Otherwise, leave it alone!
2 pounds ripe tomatoes
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2/3 cup chopped yellow onion
1/3 cup grated carrot
1/3 cup chopped celery
1-2 pinches salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
Olive oil as needed
Quarter the tomatoes and simmer in a covered saucepan for 10-12 minutes; remove the cover and continue cooking for 1-1/2 hours. Puree the tomatoes after they have cooled and discard seeds and skins. Sauté the vegetables in a fair amount of olive oil for about 10 minutes, add the tomatoes and simmer for an additional 20 minutes. Serve over al dente pasta with mounds of Parmigiano-Reggiano.