Coast Cooking

‘Soul Food isn’t anything other than good country cooking,’ says Nana J

Cornbread and collard greens are delicious and healthy.
Cornbread and collard greens are delicious and healthy. Special to the Sun Herald

Although many cultures influenced the Southern food tradition, the heart of this cuisine is what has become known as soul food.

Black eyed peas, cornbread, collard greens and sweet potatoes were the foods of poor folks who worked the farms of the wealthy or were tenant farmers.

Their lot was about simple and it is the way my father grew up in the Mississippi Delta, just outside of Tutwiler. Hard as life was, good food, and in some quantity, was essential.

Most often soul food is found in the home kitchen, but there are a few exceptions. One of my favorite local examples is Nana J’s in Ocean Springs.

I visited Nana J’s recently and talked to owner, Karen Newkirk. I asked her to define Soul Food and she said, “Soul Food isn’t anything other than good country cooking.”

I couldn’t agree more. Its good country cooking that is made by someone with a passion for cooking and feeding family and friends.

Here are a few simple recipes that might get you started.

Cornbread and Collard Greens

I can’t think of a more delicious combination than this, and it is healthy and delicious.

Melissa Clark bakes tender, flavorful cornbread in a cast-iron pan.


If your diet allows, use bacon drippings instead of oil for this recipe. Make sure to use a cast iron skillet. If you just aren’t up to making cornbread from scratch, buy a mix and do the best you can.

6 tablespoons butter

1 cup cornmeal

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

Oil or bacon drippings

Preheat oven to 425 f. Combine all the ingredients, starting with the dry, then the wet (exclude the oil). Add oil, preferably bacon drippings, to a cast iron skillet, and heat to the smoking point. Carefully pour in the batter, and remove from the heat. This forms a dark brown crust that is delicious. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes.

Collard Greens

1-2 bunches stimmed and rinsed collard greens

2-3 chopped smoked pork chops

Black pepper and red pepper flakes

2-3 cups chicken stock

Olive oil

Chop the pork chops into good size chunks (including the bones), season with the pepper, and sear in hot oil. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Taste and re-season as necessary. Add the greens a handful at a time and simmer, lid on, till tender.

Butter the cornbread, then top with the greens and plenty of pot liquor. Garnish with tomato chutney if you like.

Mac and Cheese

Mac and cheese is not of Southern origins, but we have made it our own. I can hardly imagine a Southern table loaded for Sunday supper without it being served.

4 cups cooked and drained elbow macaroni (consider using a different pasta shape)

4 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon sour cream

2 cups grated yellow cheddar cheese

1/3 cup cream cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

1/4 cup milk

Make sure the pasta is still hot! Combine the ingredients, use a double boiler if you like, mix well over medium low heat until creamy and hot. Season to taste.

Fried Catfish

Please use the best quality catfish you can find, certainly Mississippi raised. Simmons from the Mississippi Delta is much preferred.

1-2 catfish filet per person

2 cups milk

1 cup yellow corn meal

¼ cup flour

2-3 pinches salt and an equal amount of black pepper

Oil for frying

Place the catfish in the milk and allow to stand while you get everything else together. Fill a thick bottom pot only half way with oil. Heat to 360 f. Combine the dry ingredients, and seasonings. Toss the catfish in the dry mix, shake off excess, and deep fry until golden brown. Make sure to fry in small batches. Serve with coleslaw and French fries.