Coast Cooking

Pork shanks take a place in my top dishes of the year

The pork shank by Chef Milton Joachim is amazing.
The pork shank by Chef Milton Joachim is amazing. Special to the Sun Herald

This week I’m blogging about some of the best foods I have sampled this year.

It would be hard to make a list like this without having a pork entry on it. Pork chops are forever popular in the South, but several places have been making a major statement with pork shanks.

Soigne, (1019 Government Street, Ocean Springs) I must tell you has re-branded itself and calls itself Charred, a Steak and Oyster Bar now.

I love the idea, and I think it will do well in Ocean Springs, but will miss some of the amazing food that Chef Milton Joachim made in his amazing Southern-Creole style.

My favorite was a braised pork shank, served on a bed of red beans (as in red beans and rice). It was simply stunning.

The secret was long and slow cooking in a braising stock made of veal stock and red wine, along with a handful of other ingredients Joachim didn’t want to reveal.

Cannella (1113 US 90, Bay St Louis) also has an amazing shank, although it is in a completely different style. It is a smoked shank imported from Southern Germany and comes with all the German side dishes you might expect. If you visit Cannella and try this dish, come famished, it is huge and delicious.

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