Food & Drink

A review of Biloxi’s new Saltgrass Steak House. If you want good Texas-style food, it’s here.

Six-ounce filet with Cajun topping.
Six-ounce filet with Cajun topping. Special to the Sun Herald

In the mood for a Texas style steak house? Walk into the newly opened Saltgrass Steak House and you will know that is exactly where you are.

There is absolutely nothing subtle about this place. From the horns on the wall, to the framed rattlesnake skin, white-washed fireplace and the music that serenades customers: This place says Texas.

But don’t get the idea that all the cowboy paraphernalia is a gimmick, it isn’t. There is an authenticity to the decor, and, more importantly, the menu.

Do you think this place is fooling around? You’d be dead wrong if you did.

You know I have a certain enthusiasm for small plates, so you won’t be surprised to know I started with the Range Rattlers ($11.49), what my server assured me was the most popular appetizer. It’s a jumbo jalapeno stuffed with shrimp, jack cheese, cilantro and ranch dressing for dipping. It was delightful, but fair warning, these are serious jalapenos, not the wimpy sort that some places offer, so expect a pretty serious bite.

There are eight appetizers to choose from (I must tell you I would go for the stuffed jalapenos again), and the seafood fondeaux ($10.49) was pretty remarkable, cheesy, hot and delicious, just as you would expect. This is a category worthy of exploration.

If you are in the mood for beef, you know you have come to the right place. Steaks, burgers, chicken fried streaks, baby backed ribs, plus a world of toppings and options abound. The six-ounce filet ($23.99) with the Cajun topping (shrimp, crawfish, spinach, andouille sausage in a cream sauce for $7.99) was amazing, but if you are in the mood for seafood, the blackened redfish ($24.99), with shrimp, lump crab, spinach, tomatoes, scallions and lemon butter stands tall.

But better than a recitation of all the good things on the menu, let me get to the heart of things at Saltgrass. There is nothing slapdash about this menu. Every dish is well thought out, from pairings, to seasonings, contrasting textures and platings.

There is a baker on staff, so the delicious bread that arrives on the table just after you sit down, was baked that morning. Perhaps even more impressive, the butter is made in-house as well. Wow. Every sauce, and topping is house-made, and don’t you even think about skipping the sides. The Brussels sprouts were some of the best I have ever had: shredded and braised with bacon, a little garlic and onions, simply delicious.

Saltgrass is all about attention to detail, from the atmosphere, to super friendly, and, amazingly well-informed staff, a well-balanced menu and delicious food.

As you might expect, expect a crowd, but there is plenty of parking. And, did I mention the desserts? The carrot cake and cheesecake? Stand back, I’m going in!

Saltgrass Steak House

Where: 140 Beach Blvd, Biloxi

Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Phone: 228-435-4964