Baja Beach is a worthy new addition to Biloxi's restaurant row

Baja Beach is the newest addition to Biloxi's growing restaurant row of beachside eateries along U.S. 90.

Walk into this establishment, and you'll find a unique character. It isn't a laid-back Florida beer joint with peanut hulls on the floor. It certainly isn't a snooty-fine dining place, or even a cheeseburger paradise. This is a classy place that combines the best of the Tex-Mex tradition, with a serious Baja prejudice.

The menu is expansive, even innovative, and if you can't find something to love on it, Tex-Mex must not be your thing. There are 10 appetizers from which to choose, enough to make a tapas-style meal, if you want small plates.

Special attention should be given to the Baja Queso Dip, a dish recommended by our server. For $10 you get queso blanco, the basic Tex-Mex dipping sauce, but this version is loaded with crabmeat and shrimp. Also of note are the Shrimp Tostadas, a dish not likely to be found on any other local menu, and well worth $10. Two crispy tostadas with lots of guacamole, sautéed shrimp and a solid mango salsa. One more starter you should try is the Duck Empanada, perhaps one of the most interesting choices on the menu. The empanadas are chewy, just like they are supposed to be, and filled with bits of duck, bacon, charred corn and a contrasting queso fresco.

There also are five burritos on the menu and all look good, but the Deep South looks intriguing. Imagine grilled steak, French fries, grilled peppers and onions, refried beans, jack cheese, chipotle slaw, and a enchilada rojo sauce. It seems a mishmash of ingredients, but when wrapped in a flour tortilla it works. This mouthful will set you back $16.

There also are seven tacos on the menu, all served on made-to-order tortillas. There are the classics, such as carne asada, fish, carnitas and beef, but if there is a little adventure in your spirit, try the oyster taco: lightly fried oysters with avocado, pico de gallo, chipotle slaw and a great wasabi glaze. This taco is yours for $14, and it comes with a side of rice and choice of beans.

If you are coming for dinner, go to page two of the menu for the Baja Specials. You'll find their take on a burger, ribs, Chicken Margarita and Sunset Shrimp all for $18 or less. Move up to a ribeye for $24 or a Superior Mahi for $21.

Baja Beach is the newest kid on Biloxi's restaurant row, but it's a tasteful, almost elegant beach-side option. If you are looking for a little Tex-Mex in a starched shirt, less the tie, this place is for you.

This story was originally published November 19, 2015 at 7:17 PM with the headline "Baja Beach is a worthy new addition to Biloxi's restaurant row ."