Restaurant News & Reviews

I’m a food critic on the Mississippi Coast. These are my 10 favorite restaurants in 2021.

Sun Herald food critic Julian Brunt picks his favorite restaurants of 2021, including Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis and Vestige in Ocean Springs.
Sun Herald food critic Julian Brunt picks his favorite restaurants of 2021, including Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis and Vestige in Ocean Springs. Special to the Sun Herald

The diversity and number of restaurants on the Mississippi Coast is truly remarkable. I write about more than 50 every year, and I do my best not to write about a restaurant more than once, unless there is a big change in menu, location or chef.

Thinking back on the year and making a list of the best ones I have visited is dangerous work indeed. Here is my subjective list of the best restaurants I’ve dined at in 2021. You may have other spots that didn’t make my list, as there were many other delicious places I’ve eaten at over the year. But here are my favorites.

No. 1: Vestige in Ocean Springs

It’s an always an easy choice. Vestige has been my favorite place for years. There’s just not another chef that comes close to Alex Perry and his creativity and attention to detail. Vestige is stunningly good in every way, from the minimalist atmosphere to the incredible menu that changes frequently.

Chef Alex Perry, from left, sous chef Carson Neaves, Kumi Perry, Rachel Gnapp, Mike Anthony and Steve Mockler at Vestige in Ocean Springs.
Chef Alex Perry, from left, sous chef Carson Neaves, Kumi Perry, Rachel Gnapp, Mike Anthony and Steve Mockler at Vestige in Ocean Springs. Julian Brunt Special to the Sun Herald

Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis.

I’ve been a fan of chef Lauren Joffrion for several years, and she’s the best up-and-coming chef on the Coast. She and Thorny Oyster head chef Jeffrey Hansell are a dynamic duo.

Joffrion is going places. Be sure to try the bouillabaisse if you go.

Middleneck clams with Chorizo and braised peppers at Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis
Middleneck clams with Chorizo and braised peppers at Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis Julian Brunt Special to Sun Herald

Thirty-Two at IP Casino Resort

Thirty-Two has long been a favorite of mine. Chef Matt Kallinikos, who has made magic happen at the steakhouse in Biloxi for years, has moved on and we will just have to see how the new chef turns out. Knowing the culinary team at the IP like I do, I am sure it will be great. Thirty-Two remains the most romantic spot on the Coast, especially if you make your reservations for sundown. The view is spectacular.

Thirty-Two’s double-cut lamb rack is prepared with apricots, herbs, dates, almonds and roasted carrots for the winter 2021 menu at the IP Casino Resort.
Thirty-Two’s double-cut lamb rack is prepared with apricots, herbs, dates, almonds and roasted carrots for the winter 2021 menu at the IP Casino Resort. Julian Brunt Special to Sun Herald

Quave Brothers in D’Iberville

The po-boys at Quave Brothers has been a favorite of mine for years. No one comes close to their famous pot roast po-boy, and I’ll stand in line for a long time for any of their sandwiches.

Stalla at the Beau Rivage

I love to sit at the chef’s table at Stalla and watch the kitchen in action. It’s as smooth running a kitchen as I have ever seen. Check out the mussels in tomato broth, bruschetta, handmade ravioli, lamb chops and a whole lot more.

White Pillars in Biloxi

Another top pick is chef Austin Sumrall’s White Pillars. Sumrall is a Mississippi native, and he takes Southern inspired food to new levels. Sumrall is one of two James Beard nominated chefs on the Coast, and he deserves that distinction. Check out his chicken and sausage gumbo and the best oysters Rockefeller I have ever had. The bone marrow and streak burger is off the charts, as is the seafood cioppino.

Austin Sumrall, chef and owner of White Pillars restaurant
Austin Sumrall, chef and owner of White Pillars restaurant File Sun Herald

Henry’s in D’Iberville

I am also a huge fan of Henry’s Café and Bakery in D’Iverbille. It is a Vietnamese place and makes my favorite French bread on the Coast. The pho is also extremely good, and the beef stew is sensational. Everything I have had from their extensive menu was top notch, especially the pork dishes.

Greenhouse in Biloxi

To my great sadness, the Greenhouse on Porter in Ocean springs has closed, but the Biloxi location is catching on fire. The quiche is amazing, as is the biscuit and lox, and I love all the sandwiches, including the burger, ham and cheese, pimento and cheese and the roasted chicken salad.

Greenhouse Biloxi on Howard Avenue and G Ohr Street is easy to spot with a coat of pink paint. The restaurant is known for its biscuits and lunches.
Greenhouse Biloxi on Howard Avenue and G Ohr Street is easy to spot with a coat of pink paint. The restaurant is known for its biscuits and lunches. Julian Brunt Special to Sun Herald

La Nortena in Biloxi

La Nortena, a Mexican place in Biloxi, is also one of my favorites. Everything is good, but I always especially enjoy the burrito and tacos. It is simple fare but delicious.

Sea Level in Pass Christian

The last place I am going to mention is Sea Level in Pass Christian. It is a small wooden building on the beach and has no inside seating. But it is a lovely place to sit at a picnic table and enjoy a great burger, tacos, hot dog and sandwiches.

Sea Level manager Kyle Thomas makes the Sea Level burger. The tiny restaurant in the Pass Christian Harbor won the title of Best Burger in the Sun Herald’s Burger Bracket.
Sea Level manager Kyle Thomas makes the Sea Level burger. The tiny restaurant in the Pass Christian Harbor won the title of Best Burger in the Sun Herald’s Burger Bracket. Justin Mitchell jmitchell@sunherald.com

My apologies to all the great places I have left out, but there simply is not enough room to list them all. Please get out there and check out some of the wonderfully good places to eat on the Coast.

This story was originally published December 20, 2021 at 5:50 AM.

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