From burgers to bouillabaisse, trendy new restaurant brings European flair to the Coast

There are a lot of good restaurants on the Mississippi Coast, but it isn’t very often I get to tell you about a truly great new restaurant.

My friend, Chef Lauren Joffrion, recently took a job at the Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis as sous chef, and by the way she described the place, I knew I had to give it a try and soon.

Jeffery Hansell is the executive chef and owner, and Billy Brownee is the other sous chef, and what this team puts out is stunningly good.

The Thorny Oyster describes itself in this way: “Sophisticated tastes with an undone, comfortable flair. The Thorny Oyster is a celebration of local ingredients and creative dishes made to excite the senses.

And it goes on to say, “Always consider the oyster, its obvious oddities and long standing, romantic relevance.” It certainly is a good start, but there is so much more to say.

This place is just classy, from the windows that look out on the busy North Beach Boulevard, to the chef’s table that looks in on a busy and very creative kitchen. There is also a separate bar, if you don’t want a table in the comfortable dining room. But there just isn’t a bad seat in the house.

I like everything about this place, but the menu is simply audacious, and it took courage to come up with it. The very first thing I notices was bouillabaisse, the famous French stew from Marseille.

Not only have I never seen it on a Coast menu, but it is also difficult to make, and the Thorny Oyster uses Gulf shrimp, fish and the classic mussels, served, of course, with grilled bread.

Clams and chorizo, a Spanish is dish, not often seen, but absolutely delicious. Frog legs are another unusual choice, but tender and oh so good. They are made with hot sauce butter, pickled celery and buttermilk Ranch.

And the list just goes on and on, with wonderful offerings like mussels and fries, which has Belgian origins (mosselen-friet) roasted bone marrow (very European) and smoked brisket tamales, which is very American with touches of the Southwest. And this list is just off the lunch menu!

For supper, you can have grilled Gulf oysters, from local off-bottom sources when available, a lobster roll, or salt and pepper calamari.

The big hits are the Thorny burger, a double patty with a special house sauce, a hand-cut rib eye and a locally sourced whole fish. Why more restaurants do not offer whole fish is a mystery to me.

Everything is better bone-in, and if the fresh Gulf snapper are available on the day you visit, you will be in for a serious delight.

And I have not even mentioned the raw bar, desserts and frequently changing menu, a sign that a restaurant is watching out for what the best of the best is that is available.

If you have an interest in seriously good food, prepared with passion and flair, make your way to the thorny Oyster with great haste!

Thorny Oyster

Location: 104 North Beach Boulevard, Bay St Louis

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday–Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday–Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday

Contact: 228-688-0401 or https://thornyoysterbsl.com/

This story was originally published August 13, 2021 at 5:50 AM.