This classic Southern restaurant on the MS Coast has ‘best ever’ country fried steak

You may remember CJ’s Coastal Grill when it was on Central Avenue in D’Iberville.

It was opened by Clifford Lancon ten years ago, but moved to its present location on Lemoyne Boulevard in 2016. It is now owned by his son, Adam Lancon, and his wife, Reagan Oswald.

This is the type of local restaurant that I simply adore. It is unpretentious in every way, from its menu to its minimalist decorum.

CJ’s is about as local as you can get, from the crowd that all seems to know each other at lunch time, to the daily lunch specials, like Tuesday’s chicken and dumplings. The rest of the week is just as good with Wednesday’s fried porkchop with mashed potatoes and greens, Thursday’s smothered pork chops with rice and black-eyed peas, and Friday’s fish, shrimp or combo platter with baked beans, potato salad or fires.

There are only eight starters, but they are all classics, like seafood gumbo, fried green tomatoes and crab cake bites.

As you might expect, the po-boys are a bestseller. Shrimp is always the most popular, but the roast beef and oyster, with extra mayo are my picks.

There is also a smoked prime rib sandwich that looked amazing. There are nine platters, all overflowing, including all the standards, like hamburger steak, seafood fest and a shrimp platter.

Everything I saw and tried looked great. The seafood was perfectly fried golden brown, the portions are generous. But the menu section titled “Classics,” is the place to go. Liver and onions, shrimp spaghetti, and open-faced roast beef all looked great, but what knocked my socks off was the country fried steak.

The original owner, Clifford Lancon, although technically retired, still comes in every morning and hand cuts and tenderizes these beauties. They are huge, and so tender, with a crunchy crust and covered in delicious homemade gravy.

How good is the country fried steak? I’ve eaten a bunch of them in my life and this was the best I ever had. Really.

CJ’s is the type of hometown diner that used to be so common in the Deep South, featuring local favorites passed down by generations of good cooks.

Fast food and convenience foods put an end to most of these lovely family-owned businesses, and what a pity that is, but thank goodness there are still a few of these classic Southern restaurants around.

This is the sort of friendly place, with food that has done nothing but get better over the generations. On your way out, make sure to stop and get CJ’s tee shirt, and spread the word about this little jewel.

CJ’s Coastal Grill

Location: 15200 Lemoyne Blvd., Biloxi

Phone: 228-280-8880

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday

This story was originally published June 18, 2021 at 5:50 AM.