Jerk chicken po-boys? ‘Amazing’ Biloxi cafe has Jamaican-American mashups, oxtail stew
Chef Raymond Brown has been cooking Caribbean style food on the Coast for 15 years. And let me assure you that he is very good at what he does.
The spice is just right, the gravy is rich and hearty, and portions are large. Not only is Brown is a very talented chef, he is also quite the character!
His latest place, Jamrock, is small, but made festive with Jamaican colors and music. There are booths and tables to sit, well-spaced of course, and the menu is on the wall for all to plainly see.
It is a curious menu, for a Jamaican restaurant, because the menu is split in two. On the left side you will find the classic Jamaican dishes that are so popular in the USA: jerked chicken, brown chicken and, of course, stewed oxtails, just to name my favorites. There are nine choices and seven sides.
But what Chef Brown has done with the right side of the menu is simply creative and I like it a lot. It’s a mix of Jamaican and American foods. The two that really got my attention were the jerked chicken and jerked shrimp po-boys. Pretty cool, right?
Jamaican food is spicy and hearty, and when you walk away from a Jamaican meal, you are seriously full and will be for some time.
It is perhaps some of the best comfort food in the world. So filling, savory, just what you need when things are not going well, as they are not today in this world.
But there is one dish that stands out, and that is quite a feat, considering the competition. It’s the oxtail stew.
I can think of nothing more satisfying. The meat is falling-apart tender, the rice is fluffy white, and the cabbage delectable, but still holding a little crunch. But what binds this dish together and makes it so incredibly good is the rich, dark brown gravy.
This is not a dish that you are going to eat with dainty manners. You are going to dive in with your hands and fingers, sucking every amazing morsel of tender beef off the bone. Just try to stop before your plate is empty. No way!
Oxtail stew will make you happy, full and content. Pair one of the Jamaican soft drinks, like Ting, Kola or ginger beer and you have reached near perfection.
We all have been carrying an extra burden these last few months, and I have lots of friends who are down and out, but, if you are a foodie of any order, JamRock has the cure, at least for a few pleasant hours with friends.
Takeout and delivery make it even easier. I am heading back for seconds, and soon.
JamRock Cafe and Bar
Where: 1635 Pass Road, Biloxi, just west of Keesler Air Force Base
When: Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Phone: 228-435-9121, delivery available on Uber Eats app
This story was originally published November 6, 2020 at 5:50 AM.