Restaurant News & Reviews

Want authentic tacos? This Biloxi taqueria has magical mole, carnitas and more

Not too many years ago, you would have been hard pressed to find an authentic Mexican restaurant on the Coast.

There were a few Tex-Mex places, and there is nothing wrong with that food tradition.

It’s like the difference in Italian and Italian American food. Meatballs and spaghetti is just fine in the Italian American community, but in Italy it would never work.

So, I was delighted to find this little place on Popp’s Ferry Road, El Tarasco Taqueria y Restaurante, that offered dishes both ways, and does it quite well.

It is small, just a few tables, but brightly colored, and comfortable. There is also a takeout window, so you do not have to go inside.

As soon as I walked in and saw the sign offering traditional fruit-flavored water, like Jamaica and Tamarindo, I knew I was on to something good. This delicious and refreshing summertime drink is hand made, and perfect for a hot day.

You won’t be surprised to know that the taco selection, with eight choices, are the bestsellers, but brush up on your Spanish taco terminology to order. Some are obvious, like barbacoa, a spicy Mexican dish similar to our barbecue. Chorizo you must know, if you are a fan of Mexican food at all, carnitas is slow-cooked pulled pork, camaron is shrimp.

One of the best of all, and a dish far too many Americans shy away from, is lengua, or beef tongue. So tender and delicious. Really, if you are going to eat beef, why not eat the whole thing?

Expect the tacos to be served in soft corn tortillas, as they are supposed to be.

Another specialty of this magical little place is mole, but to my vast disappointment, it is offered only on every other weekend, with pozole, the famous Mexican soup being offered in between.

If you have never had a good mole, then, if you get yourself to El Tarasco soon, your life is going to change. This amazingly rich and delicious sauce is traditionally made with chilies, dried fruits for sweetness, various spices and chocolate. Recipes vary widely, but a good one is stunningly good.

The tacos are good, and authentically Mexican, the chalupa, sort of like an taco, but the tortilla is much thicker, is also quite good. If you decide to go Tex-Mex, the California burrito — which must be eaten with a knife and fork — was delicious.

There are also daily specials, like Monday’s quesadilla fajitas and the obligatory taco Tuesday. In all, there are fifty choices on this menu, from thirty-two sides, like tamales, bean dip or rice, and seventeen entrees.

I like the combinations, like the chili relleno and flauta combo, but there are also four good tortas, Mexican-style sandwiches to choose from: chicken, ham, roast beef, and sausage.

It’s easy to drive by El Tarasco Taqueria y Restaurante but keep a sharp lookout on the east side of Popp’s Ferry. You do not want to miss this little jewel.

El Tarasco Taqueria y Restaurante

Where: 2125 Popp’s Ferry Road, Suite D, Biloxi

When: 930 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Sunday

Phone: 228-967-7795 or www.facebook.com/El-Tarasco-Taqueria-y-Restaurante-117246523008392

This story was originally published August 28, 2020 at 11:00 AM.

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