Restaurant News & Reviews

With Mellow Mushroom closed, get the ‘pie of your dreams’ at a new Ocean Springs restaurant

Mickey Culberson knows a lot about pizza.

He has spent a life time in the hospitality business, including 15 years owning and managing well-known pizza franchise Mellow Mushroom in south Mississippi. He always wanted to go out on his own, and recently he got the chance.

Tap and Crust is the newest pizza place on the Coast, and in my estimation, one of the best.

In all those years working in the business, Culberson did his homework, and perhaps more importantly, listened to what his customers were telling him.

He understands good customer service, and he also knows how to treat his employees well, many of which have been with him for quite a while. When he decided to strike out on his own, he had a good idea what he wanted to do. He knew the kinds of pizzas locals liked and he had a few specialty pies in mind as well, but what he didn’t have was his own dough recipe.

He made dough recipes by the score, and finally came up with what he was looking for. It does not matter how good the sauce and toppings are, if the crust tastes like cardboard, it just doesn’t work.

The crust that Culberson came up with is chewy and flavorful. Its not too tough, its not too thin and not too thick. I’d say its just right. This crust doesn’t get soggy before you can finish the pie, and the flavor and texture holds even as the pizza cools off. That’s pretty cool, don’t you think?

Diane Stevenson (a friend and seasoned New York pizza critic), and I shared two appetizers, and both were really good.

The Buffalo Chicken Dip, a Culberson family recipe, was cheesy and loaded with chicken and perfect for the cup like chips it comes with. It is easily enough for two to share.

We also tried the Southern Belle, a wonderful pairing of seasoned and grilled shrimp and Conecuh sausage, with a remoulade dip (I told you he listened to what locals liked!).

There are nine specialty pizzas to choose from and choosing was a tough decision. We decided on three small pizzas (at close to $10 each, they are quite affordable!), just to get a proper section.

The Jerk-Que was the first I tried, and I was dubious about the combination of jerk seasoning and BBQ sauce, but it was good, in fact, very good. It’s a tad sweet, but the sweet soon fades to a nice mild, spicy kick. It’s rich and hearty, and I loved the addition of bacon.

Next was the Steak and Potato. I was unsure of this one too, but Diane assured me she had a version of this pizza in Rome and it was one of her favorites. Steak, thin-sliced potatoes (no red sauce, of course!), with olive oil, caramelized onions, and a scattering of cheese, and we both found it delightful.

Lastly we tried the Fun Guys, and it was my favorite. Sauteed mushrooms that just jumped out with flavor, olive oil, garlic, three types of cheese and artichoke hearts. This was a deeply satisfying, savory delight and I can’t wait to try another.

We choose to go with the specialty pizzas, but Culberson told me “If I have the ingredients, I’ll make the pizza you want.”

With almost forty toppings to choose from, I think you are going to get the pie of your dreams at Tap and Crust.

If you go

Tap and Crust

Where:1108 Bienville Blvd., Ocean Springs

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Call: 228-875-4888

Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER