Nothing is more exciting in a new restaurant than to find a place that is upfront about what they are trying to do.
You have heard me lament menus that try to cover all the bases, like tacos, sushi, pizza, seafood and steaks, all on one menu and all not very good. That’s just not for me.
I want a restaurant that has the confidence to stand up and say, “This is what we do here!” Well. Let me tell you that C B’s Jamaican Jerk is exactly such a place and I am delighted to tell you about it.
The menu isn’t petit, it is minuscule, with just four offerings and a few sides, but with food this delicious, done so right, balanced so perfectly, who could possible need more?
C. B. is in fact Clemant Brown, chef and owner, ably assisted by his son (and rising star) Cadeem Brown, and this is their first restaurant in the United States, but I promise you would never have guessed it. This place is perfection.
Pull into the parking lot, you will smell the jerk on the grill. Nothing else in the world smells like Jamaican jerk done right.
Chef Brown assured me he had gotten has the spice blend just right after a long time of adding a touch of this and a touch of that, and after lunch there with my friend Diane Stevenson, I’d have to agree. This, my friend, is great jerk.
So just what is on the menu? I’d be remiss if I didn’t start out by telling you that the jerk ribs I had there were nothing short of stellar. Falling-off-the bone tender, moist and the jerk spice was perfect. I ordered a whole slab because I wanted to take some home, but what was leftover was hardly a good snack.
The sides were barbecue beans and slaw, but my attention was on the ribs, the sides were nothing more than sides, only a pause in between bites of stunningly good ribs.
We also tried the jerk chicken, but I already knew how good it was going to be. I walked by the grill that Chef Brown was working on my way in and saw and smelled what was going on there. Same story: falling off the bone, delicious and wonderfully spicy.
There is also a burger and a pulled turkey sandwich on the menu, and, I guess, I am just going to have to go back and try them both. But it is not going to take an untried menu item to get me back to this place.
Jerk spice is one of the wonders of the world, in my book. Combine the right jerk spice and the kind of talent that Chef Brown has, and the magic happens. I think Chef Brown and I are going to be close friends and soon!
C B’s Jamaican Jerk
Where: 6716 Washington Ave., Ocean Springs
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 2-8 p.m. Sunday