Restaurant News & Reviews

That ‘restaurant by the tracks’ is getting national attention

The pulled pork sandwich at Darwell’s is a great quick lunch choice.
The pulled pork sandwich at Darwell’s is a great quick lunch choice. Special to the Sun Herald File

The praise and accolades continue to pour in for that “restaurant by the tracks.”

Forbes contributor and food critic Larry Olmsted recently named Darwell’s Cafe one of the “10 best restaurants of 2016.”

“This was my most surprising meal of the year — go someplace with high expectations and it is easy to be disappointed, but go someplace someone recommended that you know nothing about and you might be awed,” Olmsted said about Darwell’s in his post.

“I was awed by Darwell’s Cafe, a true roadside joint that is literally on the other side of the tracks, just outside the Gulf Coast tourist towns of Gulfport and Biloxi. Charmed by the hideaway-you’ve-just-discovered-something setting, the whimsical art covering the walls, the amazing bring your own booze outdoor space with regular live music, and the super friendly staff, I loved Darwell’s before I ever tasted the food. Then I tasted the food: Wow!

“The menu is broad, very Southern, and ranges from BBQ to po’ boys, but the focus is on Cajun, Creole and fresh wild caught seafood of the Gulf of Mexico, including some of the world’s best shrimp, excellent oysters and blue crab. The signature dishes are the Darwell’s Sampler and the crab melt sandwich. The three-bowl sampler includes crawfish etouffee, shrimp creole and gumbo, and the crab melt is layers of fresh blue crab meat, ham and Swiss, served warm on thick grilled Texas toast. Everything is made to order all the time, and the place just serves up a great experience.”

Olmsted also wrote a glowing review of the restaurant for USA Today in March 2016. Sun Herald food writer Julian Brunt featured Darwell’s in a recent blog post.

Darwell’s was also featured on the Food Network show “Diners Drive-ins and Dives.” The episode can be seen here.