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Eats: Pelican Wharf serves up great food on beach in Biloxi

JULIAN BRUNT/SPECIAL TO THE SUN HERALDCrispy and moist fried chicken served at Pelican Wharf.
JULIAN BRUNT/SPECIAL TO THE SUN HERALDCrispy and moist fried chicken served at Pelican Wharf.

Rob Stinson and team recently re-branded Beach Bums and turned the adult-themed bar into a Cajun-influenced, family-friendly place called Pelican Wharf Cajun Grill.

It still has the tropical/beach vibe, and that is what it should have.

Take a seat inside, or if you are solo or with just a friend, grab a bar stool, or perhaps the best option on a spring day, sit outside. The view is great, the sea breeze is cool, and you can sit in the sun or shade.

The nitty gritty of any restaurant, however, is the menu and what comes out of those kitchen doors.

Stinson has a reputation for offering some interesting food ideas, and he nailed this menu. It's a two-pager, with appetizers, entrees, sandwiches and desserts on the front page, and drinks of any description on the reverse, including 20 beers on tap.

There is not a selection on the appetizer list that didn't look tempting.

The fried green tomatoes ($5), served with a spicy and delightful remoulade sauce and the interestingly named Boudreaux bread ($13) got our attention and proved to be delicious. The toasted bread was loaded with crawfish, shrimp and sausage, and the creamy Cajun sauce tied it all up in a lovely way. Try this appetizer along with a cold brew, and you will be happy indeed.

The appetizers were good, but "Ms. NOLA's Southern Fried Chicken" ($11) brought the house down. The boneless chicken thighs (the most flavorful and moist part of the chicken) were fried to order. They were tender and juicy with a crispy crust. The chicken is served with red beans and dirty rice, a perfect accompaniment.

Another winner was the "Royal Street Shrimp Creole," ($17) but the typical brown shrimp were replaced with boiled royal red shrimp -- little lobster-like shrimp that have become all the rave. The reds are served with the Creole sauce, rice, a wedge of lemon and asparagus.

There just wasn't time and room for the cheeseburger that I always crave (there are two on the menu for just $10), and the Ole Sloppy ($14) a wonderful combination of a smoked brisket sandwich and a grilled cheese sandwich looked great. Both will just have to wait for next time, and, yes indeed, there will be a next time. It just can't get here soon enough.

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