All this week’s blog posts are featuring those out-of-the-way, funky restaurants that are frequently the best places to eat.
What usually makes the difference is that mama is in the kitchen, using family recipes, taking no short cuts and making everything from scratch.
Since Hurricane Katrina there has been an explosion of Tex-Mex restaurants on the Coast, and there's nothing wrong with them, if you like that genre, but if you want real Mexican cuisine, there are just a few to choose from. My favorite is La Nortena on Porter Avenue in Biloxi.
Mama is definitely in the kitchen; the clientele is almost all Spanish speaking, plus a small handful of knowing Americans. All the food is good, all is made to order, but the tacos, and tortas (Mexican sandwiches) are nothing less that wonderful. There also is fresh juice in the summertime, and while the kitchen is closed on Mondays, they do serve tacos off of a grill.
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All of the menu is good, but if you are brave enough, try the taco de lengua, or beef tongue. You will find them life changing. They are served simply and elegantly with fresh chopped tomato, salsa and cilantro. The tongue is as tender as any beef you have ever had, and just delicious. Get two, or even three, and that is all you will need. This will be a meal you will long remember.