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Thursday, Oct. 22, 2009

Desporte deli specializes in Biloxi seafood

BILOXI — The Desporte name is synonymous with fresh Mississippi Coast seafood. But unless you’ve visited the fresh fish market, you won’t know that they also serve already prepared, Biloxi-style lunches.

That translates into po-boys, gumbo, jambalaya, etouffee, seafood platters, fried fish and lunch specials.

When Desporte & Sons, a five-generation business, relocated nine years ago to Division Street, the family decided to add a lunch deli.

The late Juni Desporte, so the family story goes, tried 100 recipes before he found one he wanted for the deli’s gumbo. In addition to traditional coastal fare, the Desportes have created such tempters as the Cajun Shrimp Tater Salad, which is red-skinned potatoes boiled with shrimp then made into a somewhat more traditional salad.

Ever heard of a jambalaya egg roll, or a crabmeat and cream cheese egg roll? Sometimes, you’ll find them on the menu. Take note: If you try something new and you like it, you better let the deli staff know to make it a menu regular at JR’s Deli, as it is called.

No joke, you could ring a bell to make your statement. The kitchen staff loves to hear the dinner bell above the counter ring because it means a happy stomach and maybe a tip. Don’t be surprised if you hear laughter, a little singing and music coming from the kitchen.

The deli staff believes that the good times roll into the food they serve, be it a lunch special of Salisbury steak or a gator sausage po-boy.

“We’re a local family business, proud to be around 110 years,” says Sean Desporte, who with uncle Artie Desporte, heads the business on the corner of Porter Avenue. Most market and deli staff are family. You’ll even see Sean’s grandparents, “Paw Paw” Emile and “Maw Maw” Shirley, greeting customers.

The Desporte history, like many with longtime Coast roots, has Cajun French and Spanish mixed in with a tenacity that sees them through hurricane losses and tough financial times. They got 7 feet of Katrina water but worked hard to reopen the market and deli.

“We used to buy our employees lunch every day so when we decided to move to Division Street we thought a lunch deli would help us, plus the locals and tourists,” says Sean Desporte.

“We try to treat people like like family — good food, good prices, good service and good attitude. Biloxi is one of the oldest seafood towns in the U.S. and we want to keep it that way.”

The deli is particularly proud of the crabmeat po-boys, and the Smokin’ Ahi Tuna Dip and the homemade tartar, remoulade and cocktail sauces. Be sure to request the “special sauce.”

The $5.95 lunch specials vary, but expect such dishes as lima beans and sausage, Cajun Shrimp spaghetti and spicy shrimp jambalaya.

The menu has eight seafood or chicken salads.

Depending on your appetite, choose the smaller lunch basket or the larger seafood platters.

A best seller is the “Everyday Fish Special” for $6.95, which includes a half cup of seafood gumbo (or shrimp-corn bisque or shrimp etouffee), fries or potato salad and a drink.