Posted on Fri, May. 09, 2008
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Shower-valve problem gets personal
By ED DEL GRANDE
HGTVPRO.COM
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Q: My old tub and shower valve needs to be replaced. To make matters worse, the pipe inside the wall that goes up to my showerhead is broken and also has to be replaced.
Of course, my only access panel behind the tub wall is just for the lower part of the wall where the tub valve is. This means to replace the shower pipe, my entire back wall has to be opened up.
My plumber says he can install a mixing valve with a low handheld personal-shower fitting and hose and we can just hang the showerhead up high. This would save breaking the wall, but is this a good idea?
Sharon
A: Well, it is a creative solution, but before you do anything, check your local codes to see if it is allowed.
Of course, the best way to do things would be to open up the back wall and install the new mixing valve complete with a new shower pipe and shower arm through the wall and into the tub/shower stall. Then, patch and rebuild the back wall with perhaps a larger access panel.
While more expensive and invasive, this can give you a better house-resale value. However, I understand that we are all on tight budgets, and sometimes a quicker, less expensive way out of a problem is appealing.
If you go for the personal shower with the extension hose, I would spend the extra money for a chrome-trim hose, showerhead and hanging bracket. This will give you a more finished look than plastic and may actually add more beauty to your tub and shower. Not bad for taking the easy way out!
Some personal showers have vertical hanging-bar assemblies that would allow you to slide the showerhead up and down on the chrome bar for your own custom shower height.
Either way, if you go with opening up the wall or the personal-shower solution, make sure your new tub/shower mixing valve has hot-water scald protection and meets local building codes.
Q: I recently saw you at a building show and you were talking about water conservation and replacing older toilets to save a lot of water.
Since I'm removing my old toilet, does it make sense to move my toilet drain a few feet as well? I always wanted my toilet moved over a bit from the side wall.
Rodger
A: I'm thrilled that you are going to get rid of your old water-guzzling toilet for a new HET (High Efficiency Toilet) that can save thousands of gallons of water a year.
Anyone else looking for a new toilet, I recommend getting an HET that carries the Environmental Protection Agency's "Water Sense" label. The label means that the toilet tests at the high end of the flushing-power chart and flushes with 1.3 gallons of water per flush or less. That's what you call power and performance.
Anyway, I digress. While changing a toilet is usually not a big deal, moving a toilet-drain line usually is. My advice is to leave the toilet drain where it is and simply swap your old toilet for the new HET with the "Water Sense" label.
